Friday, August 17, 2012

Mushroom Hunting!

Mushroom hunting!
Grzybobranie!
August 16, 2012

Today we returned from two days in the Kaszubian forest west of Gdańsk. Our primary goal was to go mushroom hunting and experience a bit of the Polish countryside.  Amateur mushrooming is very popular in Poland, Russia, Belarus, and many other European countries. Mushrooming is experiencing a sort of "rebirth" in popularity in the States right now, as every Foodie out there seems to want to grow or gather his or her own food (I am one of them - but you know this already).

I was having rotten luck finding someone here in Gdańsk to take us mushroom hunting, so I asked the owner of Polish Culinary Vacations if she knew of anyone around here.

Malgorzata and her family recommended a place where they have stayed in this area - a lovely restored Polish Manor called Lisewski Dwór.   I had gotten some interest from an Embassy employee to come with us, but that did not pan out. We went by ourselves and had a blast!

We could not have been be happier with our stay there. Not only was the manor itself a gorgeous piece of history, the food, lodging and company were superb.
They welcomed Danger with open arms! (literally)


Lisewski Dwór was built in the 1500s by the Lisewski family, and naturally founded the village it sits in - Lisewo.
Their website has a very cute narrative about the manor's history - from the perspective of two 500+ year old trees in the garden.


They have special offerings for any outdoors-man (or woman). Their English website is still a work in progress, so I will translate from the Polish.  Activities you can pursue during your stay during summer months: wild forest berry-picking outings, mushroom hunting with an expert, sailing on the Baltic (only 15 km away), wildlife photography tour, local lighthouse tours, skeet shooting, etc.


The main house was booked for a wedding, so we stayed in a neighboring "hunting lodge" in the midst of their petting zoo!  They have 30+ chickens, including several examples of rare Polish breeds.  
We had a Golden Polish rooster in the late 80s in Georgia - his name was "Bart". This breed of chicken comes in many colors - but all have the characteristic mop of feathers on their head.  We wanted to name Bart "Tina Turner" but....well, he was a boy chicken!

The "Hunting Lodge"

You smell like....bacon!

Playground - a child's paradise




My childhood rooster, "Bart", looked just like a golden and white version of this young man.

One of the "attack geese"

 There were also geese, ducks, sheep and goats.



  

There were huge fields of rye, wheat and oats behind the manor house as far as the eye could see. 
I love seeing fields of grain - and I always win the game of "guess what cereal is growing over there". In all fairness, I did study agriculture in college.

They began to harvest the rye the day after our arrival. Watching the combines work in the fields really brought the experience together for me, as this manor has been present through a large amount of Poland's history as "The Breadbasket of Europe." This farm was a state-run farm for 50 years under the Communists. 

Between 1945-1989, the Poles, like the Ukrainians in the 1930s, were producing enough food, but they were not allowed to eat directly what they producted. Malnutrition was rampant, but never reached the level of epic starvation and "famine" that the Reds caused in Ukraine in the 1930s. 

And we walked in fields of gold

Danger had a great time running in the fields after they had been harvested and the straw baled.



Oats

Where do you want to go?

The "expert" that took us mushrooming was Erik, one of the gardeners and animal husbandry workers at the Manor.
He spoke zero English, but we had a great time and understood each other well enough.
He drove us to his house at the edge of the forest.  Every forest in Poland is state-owned and managed. I've mentioned before that there are no privately owned forests here.  Anyone can go berry picking or mushrooming any time they like.....but only after you register and get a card from the local Forest Service.

Very meager dwelling, but with a large garden and flock of ducks. They were THRILLED to have us there.
The yellow barrier is the duck's "corral" in the yard.  They were happily eating grass, ignoring us.



At Erik's house, we saw his daughters feeding their flock of ducks, and got to relax for a little while in the garden.  Once the "chores" were finished, the two girls were our ACTUAL experts on this hunting expedition!  Erik stayed at the house with his wife while we headed out into the forest.
Erik has also invited us to come to his home again one Saturday for dinner and more mushrooming.
We are honored by this invitation because when a Pole says "let's do lunch"....he means it!

The real experts!
They could not get enough of Danger love.

It had not rained much in the last week, so I was a little skeptical about how many mushrooms we would find. At first I found NONE, but the girls were very good at showing us what to look for (color, size, favorite locations in the forest floor humus). They checked each mushroom we picked. Thank goodness they did, because we did pick several "false" and poisonous mushrooms.  The chanterelles or kurki mushrooms were easy to find and identify. The pomaranczki (Porcini) mushrooms were harder to get right. Every time I thought I had one....nope!

Danger did great during our 3.5 hours of forest hiking. Most of the terrain was gently sloping and not too difficult. We did get into a blackberry patch though - lucky us!



The blackberries here taste very similar to the ones that grow wild in the States. The bushes are very different though. These brambles "creep", growing very low to the ground, and very unlike the tall, high wild blackberry bushes of North America.
DELICIOUS!  I think the girls fed every berry they picked to Danger!


So....5 kilos of mushrooms later....we are planning on a week of scrambled eggs with chanterelles, beef stroganoff, porcini risotto, chanterelles on pizza for Sunday night....etc, etc, etc.
I feel a bit sorry for our guests who are coming to visit - we hope that you guys like mushrooms!
Over the course of the next two weeks we will be hosting Olmsted Scholars from Turkey, France, Romania, Krakow, Poland and personnel from the U.S. Embassy in Warsaw. Let the fun begin!






I have about half of the porcinis drying on newspaper right now. I can't wait to make risotto with them this winter.  I am glad that I brought my favorite risotto rice with me in our express shipment - Carolina Plantation Gold Rice.

Feel free to post your favorite mushroom recipes, or send links!

Some of you readers may not know that Danger has cancer. 
He had surgery 3 weeks ago. 
He is feeling BETTER THAN EVER, and has as much energy as a puppy!
We are thankful for the skilled surgeon here in Gdańsk and her staff.

Danger always has been, and always will be a part of our adventures.

6 comments:

  1. LOVE mushrooms and your adventures. Glad that Danger could enjoy it as much as you guys did. Hope we get up there sooner than later, and that your dish towels arrive in tact. =)

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  2. I love these posts! It looks like you had a great time. If Nathan and I ever get the chance to come visit, I'd love to go to this place :)

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  3. What the MUSHROOMS?!...5 kilos of mushrooms?! With that much mushrooms, you can have a feeding Risotto to your whole neighborhood, Hermes. :P It's not everyday that you'll come across a huge haul. You're not lucky, you are wise. :)

    Mack Shepperson

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  4. Hello,

    I truly admire your blog. My wife and I are traveling to Poland for our one year anniversary and one event we wanted to do was Mushroom Hunting. Your blob was certainly the most insightful, and the Lisewski Dwor looks so wonderful. I will be researching this option more since Gdansk will be one of our visits.

    Jeff

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    1. Thanks Jeff, I'm happy that my ramblings have helped you! :) We still live in Gdansk, please let me know if you have any questions about the area. The Lisewski manor is fantastic and we hope to go back there again.
      Cheers

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    2. Thank you for the fast response (or viewing my comment quickly). I actually have lots of questions which I would love to burden you with :) We felt Gdansk would be one of the more interesting cities to visit and I need to figure out how much we can actually cram in with only a few days visit. If you're feeling helpful would you mind sharing an email thread so I can bounce thoughts with you off the blog? If so, shoot me a message at ajhejl@gmail

      Kind regards,

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